BY MARYAM RAHAMAN
ASTORIA — Jackson Heights native David Tianga grew up in the Golden Age of hip-hop. For Tianga, owner of plant-based restaurants Urban Vegan Kitchen and Urban Vegan Roots, hip-hop and veganism share key traits: giving a middle finger to the system and trying to live optimally.
Urban Vegan Roots, Tianga’s second restaurant, recently closed its doors in Astoria this Sunday. The restaurant was not only a vegan staple in the neighborhood, but a community space. Tianga said there were a compilation of factors behind the location’s closing, including the accrual of debt after the restaurant opened in May 2022, several months behind the original schedule. Urban Vegan Kitchen, Tianga’s first restaurant which opened a decade ago, will continue business in Chelsea.
Before working as a restaurateur, Tianga worked for years in theater and television writing. After two TV show pilots that didn’t work out, he started working part-time at Blossom du Jour, a vegan restaurant owned by Pamela Blackwell. Though Tianga intended to continue writing, he ended up becoming Blackwell’s general manager—looking for stability writing couldn’t provide.
When Blackwell went to close a restaurant, Tianga pitched his idea for Urban Vegan Kitchen. At the time, Tianga said vegan spaces weren’t speaking to the multiculturalism of the city. Though incorporating graffiti and sports into the space turned some vegans off at first, the space and its audience grew together.
“People like us were looking to turn vegan,” Tianga said. “So they wanted a space where they felt they could go eat and feel like ‘I belong here.’ This is built for me. I’m not going into somebody else’s house.”
A few years later, Tianga opened Urban Vegan Roots, bringing a culture he loved to the borough where he grew up. As a long-time yoga practitioner, some of his favorite moments in the space were yoga classes open to the community. Last December, CBS News reported that Zohran Mamdani first spoke of his plans to run for mayor to his longtime friend State Sen. Jabari Brisport at the restaurant.
Tianga also said that while the restaurant received a lot of take-out orders, there were comparatively less customers dining in—and more money going to delivery apps rather than the restaurant itself.
“People right now don’t want to have a good time because they don’t want to celebrate anything. And why would they? That’s why people go out to eat: to celebrate. What are we celebrating?” Tianga said. “Why am I gonna go spend $50 when I could just stay home, watch my Netflix, zone out, get my food delivered?”
For Tianga, the lack of dining out also represents a shift away from creativity in the New York restaurant business, especially for those not backed by investors.
“Are people moving here for Eataly, for Whole Foods, for Starbucks? Is that why kids are moving here? I don’t think so,” Tianga said. “They’re moving here for authentic New York City culture, and that is an artist coming here with a dream, creating something, building it, making it their own. It doesn’t mean you have to be born here, but it means you’re putting your voice in and it’s authentic and it’s unique.”
When asked what customers can do, Tianga said “If you really love a restaurant, try and go there as much as you can.” He also recommended trying to order take-out directly from the restaurant if possible to avoid the cuts delivery apps take.
Urban Vegan Kitchen in Chelsea, open seven days a week, can be found at 265 W 23rd St. One regular, who recently moved to Queens, told Tianga she’d be making the trip there often.
Tianga said that part of the reason why the Chelsea location performs better is because of tourists who are interested in an authentic experience.
“A tourist will come to our spot in Chelsea, hear the hip-hop, hear the reggae…and they’ll be like ‘Oh wow. This is real. This is what I came to New York for,’” Tianga said.
Tianga said the final moments of the restaurant felt like a “funeral.”
“I see other restaurants go through the same thing, like, they’re suffering,” Tianga said. “Then they announced they’re gonna close, and then everybody runs over there, and it’s too late.”
